Ep. 10 - Vinyl Plank Flooring in RV






Well I am getting closer, still have a ways to go, but the walls are painted, ceiling is up, and I moved onto the floors.
For the walls, I used BEHR paint and primer in one. They say you only need one coat, but with the luan wood, turns out that it looks alot better with two coats.

For the ceiling, I put up white beadboard. Wow, what a chore that was. I had to make a couple of deadman lifts, and still used the neighbor, and family to get that ceiling panel up!
What I learnt from beadboard... SAND IT. Give it a really good sand to take off the shiny layer. Otherwise, no paint will stick to it. I also used the BEHR paint and primer in one for this.




Now onto the floor!


Well, the PO placed those 12x12 stick on tiles, which I hated trying to remove! I needed to soak in the tub afterwards from this one!
There was no way I could spend the next two weeks trying to remove the glue that was stuck on the floor after the tile came up. I swear it was a giant fly trap, or better yet, you can stick a small child on this floor, and it wont move! So, I decided to add a sub-floor of 1/4" luan.
 



In hindsight, next time I will pay the extra and get the floating floor, I had glue everywhere!
It was in my hair, all over my hands, and I sat on the lid, so I had this big glue patch on my butt, that, the only way I could get work done is by sticking an old pc. of tile to my butt, so I would not get glue on anything!

But, the floor came out great. I rented a vinyl floor roller from HD, and followed the directions for the glue.
Basically, you start with a straight line that runs the length of the trailer. I started at 32" from the wall, this way it made for a no cutting on the driver side, and just a little cutting on the curb side.
Just lay out a few pc's ahead of time, this helped immensely.


Apply the glue with a notched trowel and wait until it gets tacky and does not stick to your finger when you touch it. It will start to look clear. (I went and mowed the back lawn at this point)



Next, you just start placing your planks, making sure you never have two planks that end close together. They are easy to cut, (easier than I thought actually, at first I was really pushing hard on the knife, and it would actually leave a little ridge. All it needs is a light cut and bend the tile, thats it!)


What I also found useful, is to actually pre-place the planks and lay them out to make sure everything is lined up correctly, and if you have to cut them. I then just traced around the plank to show the pattern on the floor, so I knew which pc needs to go where, and if it was a full plank going down, I wrote "F" on the floor for a full tile.




5 comments:

  1. Hi there--just found your blog and it is extremely helpful for my husband and me! We recently bought a 2001 25' Salem, named her Darla (as in; Dear Darla: I hate your stinking guts) and we gutted her. We had a similar experience with a "small leak" that turned out to be a whole ceiling panel repair, so I'm feeling your pain! We lay our flooring tomorrow, which will complete our list of major projects. Then it's just some pain touch ups and we are hitting the road. Best of luck with Alice!

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  3. Wait - no picture of the tile glued to your behind? Haha. In our little Dutchman Classic 180, it looks like we have subfloor, vinyl, then the vinyl squares, and THEN carpet. Using your information to prep myself for gutting and then rebuilding.

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