Well it turns out that doing the roof is not HALF as bad as fixing any other leak. Including the floor or sides (which will also be documented).
I had intended on working on the passenger rear floor and wall, but as I started and the weather was right for a few days, it progressed from taking the corner metal trim off, to actually taking rear roof trim, cutting out rotten wood, replacing, and securing the roof back together.
Important things I learned from all this...
- Dealer / previous owner did not put Butyl tape between metal roof and EPDM (rubber membrane) so the water just wicked in when the putty deteriorated.
- Dealer / previous owner did not clean the surface before putting caulking / silicone down. (It pulled up easily where it shouldn't, and stayed where I did not want it to)
- Alot of time was taken to remove all the existing brittle Butyl tape / caulking.
If you are fixing / replacing your rubber roof, make sure you read the installation instructions on Dicor, the pictures of terminations helped amazingly!
Most important thing to remember... Clean all surfaces and make a "sandwich"...
- metal sheeting
- Butyl tape
- rubber roof
- Butyl tape
- Termination bar (trim)
- Lap sealant
I also went with 5/8 plywood and not the original OSB that was down. I was going to go and buy it, but I had a sheet of the plywood that I am using for the floor, and from doing research, the swell rate of plywood to OSB was less. So, I stuck with what I had.
I "glued & screwed" (seems to be my moto with Alice...), staples did not secure the wood tight to frame, I then sanded and covered seams / screws with foil tape.
|The new plywood is in place|
|Seams were taped and rubber roof was glued on|
|MAKE A SANDWICH!!!|
Putty on skin side as well as on top of rubber.
|Clean up excess putty.|