Ep. 3 - Fix Leaky Rear Roof



Well it turns out that doing the roof is not HALF as bad as fixing any other leak. Including the floor or sides (which will also be documented).

I had intended on working on the passenger rear floor and wall, but as I started and the weather was right for a few days, it progressed from taking the corner metal trim off, to actually taking rear roof trim, cutting out rotten wood, replacing, and securing the roof back together.

Important things I learned from all this...
  • Dealer / previous owner did not put Butyl tape between metal roof and EPDM (rubber membrane) so the water just wicked in when the putty deteriorated.
  • Dealer / previous owner did not clean the surface before putting caulking / silicone down. (It pulled up easily where it shouldn't, and stayed where I did not want it to)
  • Alot of time was taken to remove all the existing brittle Butyl tape / caulking.

If you are fixing / replacing your rubber roof, make sure you read the installation instructions on Dicor, the pictures of terminations helped amazingly!

Most important thing to remember... Clean all surfaces and make a "sandwich"...
  1. Decking
  2. metal sheeting
  3. Butyl tape
  4. rubber roof
  5. Butyl tape
  6. Termination bar (trim)
  7. Lap sealant
I also went with 5/8 plywood and not the original OSB that was down. I was going to go and buy it, but I had a sheet of the plywood that I am using for the floor, and from doing research, the swell rate of plywood to OSB was less. So, I stuck with what I had.
I "glued & screwed" (seems to be my moto with Alice...), staples did not secure the wood tight to frame, I then sanded and covered seams / screws with foil tape.



The new plywood is in place
Seams were taped and rubber roof was glued on



MAKE A SANDWICH!!!
Putty on skin side as well as on top of rubber.

Clean up excess putty.


Seal with ProFlexRV
DO NOT USE SILICON!!!

Finish off any flat surfaces / screws with RV Lap Sealant




VIDEO:
How to fix a leak RV Roof



1 comment:

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